Other Unpublished Work | 2010

Fashioning an Industry: Cognitive Processes and the Construction of Worth in the Institutionalization of a New Industry

by Mukti Khaire


This inductive study of the high-end fashion industry in India explores how the worth of a new industry is constructed. Interviews with entrepreneurs and constituents of the field revealed that the worth of the industry was constructed through framing by early entrepreneurs and the actions of field-constituents as they interacted and transacted with the new industry. Field-constituents engaged in cognitive processes—curation and certification, commentary and critique, and co-presentation, comparison and commensuration—which enabled broader audiences to make sense of the industry and comprehend its value. This helped establish the cognitive legitimacy of the new industry, thus institutionalizing it.

Keywords: Market Design; Framework; Entrepreneurship; Value; Cognition and Thinking; Industry Structures; Fashion Industry; India;